There were nuts on the coach bolts so I used a step drill to make space for these. I did a few test fittings at this point and trimmed off any wood that would stop the porthole fitting flush. Using one side of the porthole as a template I marked up the holes for the bolts. Realising that the bolt holes would be across some of the sections that had no support, I used some of the solid wood removed to make packing for those areas and glued them into place. So I used the 6mm auger bit and chain drilled through these and then a pad saw to join them up. There was a smaller cross piece and a more substantial bit of framing.
WEATHER PORTHOLE SKIN
Also that the maximum depth of the router was not going to be sufficient to get through those solid sections.Īfter repeating the process on the other side I cut through the remaining tabs, prized off the plywood skin and took a look inside the door. It was during this step I realised that the door was hollow with some strengthening pieces. As with the packing pieces the slot was cut with some tabs in it so that the disk would not move whilst cutting. Once the rebate was cut, a smaller cutter was fitted and the jig adjusted for the through hole.
The depth stop was also adjusted so that the cutter would just cut into the main part of the door. If doing this step again in future I would add a bit more tolerance here maybe an extra mm as the rebate did need some fine-tuning with a chisel to fit the porthole. As the door has a ridged surface a rebate was needed so the portholes would fit flush and have no gaps for the rain to get in.Ī large cutter was fitted in the router and the position adjusted so that the outside of the cutter was half the diameter of the porthole. Once the door was removed and placed over 2 workbenches the next step was to drill the centre holes, a long 6mm auger bit was used. For the left/right position we marked the centre of the inner frame. We then measured up from that line and marked the centre. We did this in place by putting the porthole at eye height and putting some tape below the hole.
I then varnished the disks using a coloured varnish to match the door. Once the centre was cut I then marked up for the bolt holes using the porthole as a templated and drilled them to fit the joint connector nuts on the inside porthole face. I then adjusted the jig for the size needed and cut the slot. The can be joined and the process repeated to find the centre. To find the centre I used a geometry trick with a square which finds to points on the circle that are exactly opposite each other. I ordered up some plywood that was pre-cut into disks to save a bit of time. So I needed an extra bit of packing on the rear. When we measured up the door for fitting we hadn’t allowed for the rebate that was needed on the front side. Also some more materials needed to be ordered to allow the job to be done. The weather has been a bit frosty so we’ve been waiting for a warmer day. The needle will NOT move from Stormy to Dry during normal barometric pressure events.”.As mentioned a few weeks back I’ve been making a circle cutting jig to allow me to cut holes in the front door to fit some portholes.
“Note: The text / icons on the face of the analog barometer are for reference only. You will need to purchase a barometer that is designed for higher altitude conditions. Most sea-level barometers operate up to 3,000′.
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